Yes, that’s my wife Felicia and me with Justice Sandra Day O’Connor, the first woman named to the United States Supreme Court. You might reasonably assume this comes from a little cocktail party in Washington, DC. In fact, the photo shows us in Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar, often referred to by the Malagasy themselves as The Island of Ghosts. And I’m the host.
You might well ask what in the world she was doing there. In fact, she was a good friend of our ambassador, Patricia Gates Lynch, who invited her to come visit in order to establish ties with members of Madagascar’s Supreme Court. This would greatly improve the image of the United States in a country where the government had tended to keep us at arm’s length, but was becoming more approachable. Probably, it had begun to occur to them that having the Soviet Union and North Korea as their closest allies put them on the wrong side of history.
The visit came on relatively short notice and I was teamed with my good friend Liam Humphreys, head of the embassy’s political section to arrange the schedule. It proved a lot harder than we had anticipated. While we needed to give the Justice’s a full slate of events, and we were getting all kinds of positive noises from the Malagasy government, no one wanted to commit to doing a particular thing in a particular place at a particular time.
Soon, Justice O’Connor was due any day and Ambassador Lynch was politely breathing down our collective neck, while we were getting nowhere. The Ambassador was a very good sort, but this was important to her and we knew we had to get it right. I mean, we couldn’t very well meet Justice O’Connor at the airport and say, “So, what would you like to do?” (A news story from Washington had recently recounted how, at a formal dinner, a famous football player, who had been drinking way too much, shouted across the table to Justice O’Connor, “C’mon, Sandy baby, loosen up a little!” Liam and I were daring each other to hold up a hand-painted sign to that effect when she arrived. The Ambassador would have executed us on the spot, but it might almost have been worth it.)
By the end, we were nervous wrecks, but it had all turned out well. Everything fell into place at the last moment and Justice O’Connor proved a great trouper. She must have been reeling with jetlag after two very long flights, but she never showed it and was a delight to work with. On her last night in-country, I hosted a party for the embassy staff, giving us all a chance to chat and have our pictures taken with her.
While the party was going strong, Felicia took out a camera and asked Liam and me to pose for a picture. While we sat with appropriate diplomatic dignity, she said, “No, show me how you really feel.” The photo below is the result.
By the way, if I look a touch thin in the top photo, it’s because, after a bout of stomach amoebas, my six-foot-three frame was down to 145 pounds. And if Felicia appears more slim than usual, she had just recovered from a near-fatal case of malaria. Don’t let anyone tell you life in the Foreign Service is easy – especially on the Island of Ghosts.
As I say above, the Malagasy themselves sometimes refer to their home with these words. It is difficult to describe how different their world is from ours, how mutually incomprehensible our customs and culture.
I’ve tried to capture something of this in my suspense/thriller “Madagascar,” telling readers that the main character may not be Robert Knox, an American diplomat who has driven his life, his career and his soul into a hole so deep that he has drilled right through the center of the earth and emerged in Madagascar.
Here’s a slightly edited sample from the second chapter in which I try to catch something of the feel of this enigmatic place, and a hint of why it’s called the Island of Ghosts. Knox, head of the embassy’s political section, has been threatened with disclosure to the embassy of his mounting gambling debts, which would end his career, such as it is.
Excerpt from Madagascar
In the unlighted parking lot of the Hotel Continental, I steady my shaking hands and mutter to myself. “The bastard. Let him write his goddamn letter.” But my chest feels tight and it takes a couple of tries to draw a good breath.
The night air tastes of exotic flowers blossoming in the dark and carries a promise of rain. In a couple of months the jacaranda petals will fall like lavender snow.
I put the car in gear and drive along the small lake bordering the hotel. The boulevard leads through a tunnel that separates the upper town from the lower, and comes out along the sad and faded Avenue de l’Independence, the city’s main boulevard, its shops shuttered and dark, the marketplace and its sea of white umbrellas folded up. The street is empty, deserted even by the children who crawl up to the cars at stop signs, begging for change, their faces eaten by leprosy or their spines deformed by congenital disease.
On the overbuilt slopes that rise above the rows of dilapidated colonial facades, dim lights glow in the tall mud-brick houses. I think of their lamplit rooms, crowded with the ghosts. For most Malagasy, the spirits of their ancestors hover forever just over their shoulders, squeezing into every corner, tapping at the windows, haunting the doorways until there's not enough room for the living.
It only takes a few minutes to drive home. I turn up the short drive in front of my place and flash the headlights. The night guard, Monsieur Razafy—like many Malagasy, he has only one name—swings the gate open, touches the brim of his cap and gives me a chin-up nod to welcome me home. I pull into the carport of the large two-story house I merit as head of the political section. Costs the taxpayer all of a couple hundred a month.
When I get out of the car I don't go inside right away but wander into the back yard, dark and quiet at this hour, and take a deep lungful of the clean, thin air—the French describe the climate up here on the central plateau as pleasantly unhealthful—and try to exhale the tension from my meeting with Picard.
On the quiet night air I hear the snick-snick-snick of Monsieur Razafy cutting the grass with hand clippers. I once bought him a gas-powered mower, but Razafy, a serious, solidly-built man, refused it, saying, “I have always done it this way.” I tried to tell him the mower would save him a lot of time. Razafy looked at me with an expression that asked, “What is time—your kind of time—to me?”
A gust of wind rustles the trees and I look into the sky. Flashes of lightning light up the great thunderheads stacked up to the east, the lightning bolts not striking the ground but leaping from cloud to cloud, blinking like some kind of celestial pinball machine. It's all silent, the thunder swallowed by the miles, the storm like a distant battle, weighted with unreadable portent. When I start thinking like this it's time to go inside.
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